Hair curler



F. E. DOERR Feb. 13, 1940,

HAIR CURLER Patented Feb. 13, 1940 I 4 Application Decembe rlll, 193%?Sfia1 15105 116 3712 Renewed June 23,193? 9 I a m in (antiwar scalp protector. Then the outer end of the strand is flattened and slipped underthe tongue of a clip on the mandrel which'i's then rotated :by

the operator wl1ile'pulling'away from the scalp, so as tostretch thehair tightly asit is wound When the mandrel has be en woundupto the scalp protector, it is slipped into appropriate ports in the protector and locked from rotation Another objector rt M pr i e qwidimmer, '99 re a. 32;: clamping and sealing the hair str d close tothe to prevent the hair from loosening while heat is applied to set the curl. a V H The conventional method of and apparatus Croquignole winding requires an operator ofjconfj siderable skill in order toproduce a successful wave, since the hair must be spread correctly into a flat strand which has to be clamped to the win er with each hair undersubstantiallylthe s tension from the scalp protector, and the win t a operation must be performed whilefstretching the hairunder strong tension.' The difficulty using the conventionalcroquignole winder h sf heretofore prevented permanent waving heing; done in the home by individuals upon their own The principal type hair waving which is adapted to permit pe manent waving to ,be' done by. inexperienced T operators, and even b-y individuals upon own hair with complete safety and with uniform- 1y satisfactory results.

Another object of the v invention is to pro a Croquignole hair winder, hereinafter referred to asa permanent waving iron; of-improvedcon struction and arrangement wherehy; the strand is automatically spread and; tensioned as it is wound bythe curling mandrel A further object of the invention is N permanent waving ironthaving an improved clip for. lockinglthe end of a strand-to the mane drel. a

t, object iein tiasta h vide a method and apparatus for Croquigno e 1 Fig.;

scalptoa-protect nofni heat and s teain during the wavingoperation.

Still another object f the {invention to vide a heater unit adapted-for use with the per;

manent wavingiro'n to apply tofthe curledhair the proper-amountof heat for successful waving without risk of-'iniuryfto-theperson.

- 'With theseand other ob'ects in view, a

of the present inventionconsistsfin providing; a

hair curling inandi el' 'or w nder with hair flatten- -a i i i m ee efawhe i he h ris automatically-stretched with an even and predetermined tension hetweenjsai dmeans and the relatively rotatable mandrel by the winding operation itself without pull -on;the scalp, thereby avoiding the difficult and ditch painful operation, oi -the conventional method in which the hair is stretchedbetween-the winder and the scalp by combined-pollen and rotation of said winder by the operator a i V ":Another-jfeatureof the invention consists of improved clip bywhich the end of the hair strand issecured to the windenthe clip holding the hair inplace-by itsown springpressure with no tendi encyto open.

A furtherfeature ofthe invention consists of a scalp {protector of simple construction and ar; rangeinent comprising a body portion provided with a-fixed strand receiving passagor slot and a movable" means=in-the slot for clamping the strand therein, the clamping means for the strand effectively sealing said "slot to prevent the passagje of st'eamitherethroug'h to the scalp during the application -of heatto the wound curlf Still another teatureofthe invention'is a heat 85 ing particularly adapted for use with the permanent 'wavin'g iron for carrying out the here: inafter described-'inethodoi permanentfwaving,

havinga heated p'ortio'nadapted to-fit over the permanent waving' 'iron and the wound ham-and 40 providedwithjinsulationfcovering the-heated per tiom to permiti ha'ndl ing and using the device without'rrisk of-burns Otherr-featur'es;--oi .the inventionwill appear from the, following description taken conjunc-v tion with the, accompanying drawing, in tWhlCh Fig, is -aglview ofthe ,permanentwaving iron; mp4s v ewvq tllQW Dd Ii'P I f h Qiw 4 is a view of the scalp protector for use/with a the permanent wavingv ironpFig. 1.5 is a plan view of he-heater,Lthepermanent waving iron being;

View through the scalp protector, permanent a-r yiewpf the hair spreading and tenv;- ie in mean rvcrm n sa p l waving iron, and heater unit, showing the parts in operative position for permanently waving a. strand of hair; and Fig. 7 is a perspective view 01' the bearing sleeve and a portion of the hair spreading and tensioning means illustrated in Fi 3.

The permanent waving iron comprises hair clamping, winding, and tensioning means, the hair clamping and winding means being arranged 'for rotation relative to the hair tensioning mechanism. The hair winding means is illustrated in Fig. '2, and comprises a mandrel having a central portion l3 of reduced diameter upon which the hair is wound as the mandrel is ro-" tated by one hand of the operator by handle l5 a ation, but it will be sulficient to prevent rotation of the mandrel when it is momentarily released as the operator takes a new grip on the winding handle, or the handle is entirely released after the winding is completed.

A ring 20 of rubber or other suitable material is fitted over the bearing sleeve H to afford a nonslipping and heat insulating grip for the hand or fingers of theoperator.

The end of the hair strand is secured to the mandrel preparatory to winding by means of a clip 2| 'ofspring metal having two spaced, parallel, flat blades joined together at one end and pivotally attached at theother end to the mandrel by means of a pin 22. A central portion of the mandrel is slightly flattened along opposite sides adjacent the blades,,so that when the clip is in closed position, the mandrel and blades together provide a smooth and substantially circular hairreceivings'urface (seesectional view, Fig.

6) Since the clip engages diametrically opposed faces of themandrel, there is no tendency for the clip to open, regardless of the thickness of the strand of hair clamped thereunder, or of tension applied to the hair, sinceany tendency for one ;side of the clip to open as the hair is drawn taut is counteractedby the ten dency of the other side of the clip to be drawn more firmly into clamping contact. "Withthis construction, therefore, the

problem of keeping the hair fromslipping on the. qmandrel until one or twoturnshave been made is completely eliminated, since the hair is securely fastened as soon as the clip is closed.

The hair spreading and tensioning means is separately illustrated in Fig.3, and comprises cooperating spring metal strips 23 and 25, the former being secured at one end to the bearing sleeve H. The strip 25 is arranged to swing into and out of engagement with the strip 23 about a pivot pin 33, a lip 35 preventing the strips from spreading 1 apart when the strip 25 is in closed position. The

end 31 of the strip 23 beyond the pivot pin is bent toward the mandrel so as tobear against the same adjacent the end of the handle, thus preventing the'body of. the strip from being drawn against themandr'el and interfering with the hair wound thereon. i i

The scalp protector 4| illustrated in Figs. 4 and 6 comprises a body portion 42 preferably stamped out of thin-light metal and having a hairreceiving passage or slot open at one end. A tongue 43 provided with a covering 45 of thick soft rubber is pivotally mounted at the closed end of the slot on pin 41. The soft rubber covering insures a tight seal with hair strands of various thickness which effectively prevents the seepage of steam to the scalp through the slot during the application of heat to the wound curl. Additional protection is afforded to the scalp by a. cork insert 49 set into the body 42, and by a layer of felt 50 secured to the cork.

After the hair has been wound onto the mandrel it is necessary to apply heat in order to set the curl. An improved heating unit for this purpose is illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, and comprises an electrically heated core 5| shaped to fit over the wound curl and iron, and suitably insulated to permit use of the heater close to the scalp without risk of burns or discomfort. The core portion 5| is formed of light metal, having a cylindrical passage 53 in which is inserted the electrical unit comprising resistance wires 55 vitrified spaces 51 and enclosing shell 59. The core is also provided with a deep channel 6| which partially embraces the portion of the permanent waving iron bearing the wound curl with sufficient clearance to allow for the usual protecting pad 62 of foil and asbestos or other suitable material, the object of which is to keep the hair out of direct contact with the core of the heater.

The insulation of the heater comprises layers of materials selected for their non-conductive or non-absorptive thermal qualities. Surrounding the core 5| is a filling of magnesia 63, separated from a sheet of asbestos 65 by thin polished aluminum 61. The asbestos is covered by a second sheet of aluminum 69. A sheet of fibre 1| is spaced from the aluminum to provide a dead air space 13, and a second sheet of fibre 15 is likewise spaced from the sheet 1| to provide a second air space. a final outer covering, a thin layer 11 of cork surrounds the outer fibre layer 15. The edges of the various layers of insulating material adjacentthechannel are concealed by thin aluminum channel-shaped strips 19 having a protectiveLcovering of fibre strips 8| to prevent accidental contact therewith. Cap-pieces B3, 85, have similarly arranged layers of insulation between them and the core 5|. A clip 81 slidably mounted on the heater by means of rivets 89 serves to hold the heater in. place on the iron while the curl is being set. The cap-piece 83 is provided with the electricalcontacts'lll which are connected with resistance or heating wires 55 and which fit into the conventional electric outlet for heating the unit preparatory to use.

In performing the curling operation in accordance with the improved method and utilizing the apparatus comprising the invention, the first step is toclamp a flattened strand of hair as close to the scalp as possible by means of the scalp protector 4|. The outer end of the hair strand is then smoothed and flattened and clamped to the mandrel beneath the clip 2|. The hair strand is likewise laid over the tensioning strip 23 and the movable'strip 25 is turned to closed position under lip 35. Then the operator,- holding the sleeve l1 against rotation by gripping ring 20 in one hand, rotates the mandrel with the other hand to wind'the hair thereon until the entire strand wound up and the permanent waving iron is positioned close to the scalp, as shown in Fig. 6. Due to the cooperating action of the flat spring strips 23 and 25,'the hair strand is automatically flattened transversely into a thin wide armour strandlofa the :Croquignole type,- ;and :at (the? same time thepropentensionisapplied, allgwithoutlrer quiring any particular-skill or eifort ion the part of theoperator. i

After the permanent .wavingzviron ahas-sheen brought by, the winding operation to substantially the position illustrated in Fig; 6, the curl and iron vare covered with the protectiver pad or sheet 532 which has been soaked; in a borax or other suitable waving solution, Then' the heater which previously had-r'been plugged into an electric ;,outlet and; left i for thew-prescribed time, to reach the proper temperature; is placed over the protective pad-and theolipm-BI fitted over the unit. .The heateris leftiinqplace. lfora specified time, afterwhich the apparatusaisremoved and the curl given the usual aftertreatment. i

It will benoted thatjin the. preferredyconstruction herein-'shownfand described the mane drel is held from reverse rotation by frictional resistance, and wl iile this opposesthe turning or winding efiort of theoperator, itiis notlgreat enough to interfere'witlr theconvenient and easy. operation of the device or require the exerecise oi any-undue muscular effort -by=the op--( erator. Furthermore, the use I of ,such frictional resistance is of particular advantage since .it enables the waving iron ,tobe wound in-either direction yet held securely for reverse rotation and loosening of the curl. Thus-zthe iron is adapted foruse with left handed; operators as well as with right handed,permittingthe wind-v ing with'both classesyoiyoperatorsto beyperformed in the proper and correct manner with the strand uppermost and itsy-windingon the mandrel in fullview.

Another feature of advantage of the construction illustrated in the drawing is the providing of a tension device and spreader carried by the mandrel support, but spaced from the mandrel. Thus the strand is wound with the portion immediately adjacent the mandrel under a uniform tension and of the desired amount without requiring the exercise of any particular skill or manual dexterity on the part of the operator. 1

By providing an electrical heating unit which when in use is entirely detached from the source struction, it is to be understood that it is not limited thereto but may be embodied in other forms and arrangements within the scope of the appended claims.

The nature and scope of theinvention having thus'been described, what is claimed is:

1. A mandrel for winding hair having diametrically opposed flat faces v and means for clamping the hair to the mandrel comprising a pair of parallel, spaced, yielding members connected together at one of their ends and pivotally mounted at the other of their ends uponv the mandrel to clamp the hair yieldingly against the flat faces on the mandrel.

2. A device for waving hair comprising a mandrel, means for securing the hair thereto, a pair of tension members having normally fixed hair engaging faces between which the hair is drawn-litoxspreadand-tension the same, and means for zarotating :ther mandrel. -;:3.- 1A devicerfor waving hair-comprising a man-.-

drel, means for I clamping the hair thereto, means comprisingzga'rpairs of yielding, normally station-.

ary hair engaging'members between which the hair drawn" for tensioningthe hair, and means for'rotating the mandrel relatively to said tensioning meansito, draw-the hair through the tensioningkmeans :as, the hair: is wound on .the mandrel.

.4." Aidevi'cefor wavinghair comprising a rotatableqmandrel, means for clampin'gthe end ofyaystrand' of. hair :thereto, andmeans havin smoothghair engaging: faces-jheld'in fixed positionwrelatlvelyto the mandrel for spreading and tensioningya limitedlength of the strandof J hair -asthe.mandrel is rotated relatively to said means to wind-athestrand of hair on said jman- 5'. A permanent waving iron for croquignole type hair waving comprising a mandrel, means for :securin'g theend of a strand of hair to the mandrel,.means for rotatingthe mandrel, and

stationary means rotatably supporting the man tween ,said: means and the mandrel as the mandrelis rotatedrelatively'to said means to wind the hair thereon whiledrawing the hair through the.spreadingganditensioning means.

no; Alypermanent waving iron for Croquignolev type hair waving comprising a mandrel, means for'clamping; theend of ahair strandthereto,

mechanism-independent of thejmandrel and comprisinga pair of normally fixedhair engaging members ior spreading. and yieldingly clamp-K ing the..hair,=. and;means for rotating: the mandrel relatively to said mechanism to draw the drel'ifor'spreading and tensioning thehairbei hair through the mechanism and wind the hair on the mandrel while stretching the hair between the mandrel and said mechanism.

'7. A device for waving hair comprising a ,mandrel, means for clamping the hair thereto, a handle for rotating the mandrel, and means engaging the mandrel with yielding frictional contact to prevent free rotation of ,the mandrel in 1 both directions. a

8. A device for waving hair comprisinga mandrel having a friction and bearing, surface at one end thereof, a handle for rotating the mandrel, and a bearing member for supporting the end of the mandrel and provided with a friction surface cooperating with the friction surface on the mandrel to prevent free rotation of the mandrel in both directions.

9. A device for waving hair comprising a mandrel having a bearing surface at one end thereof,

a handle for rotating the mandrel, and a split sleeve to receive the bearing surface of'the mandrel and engage the same with a yielding, frictional grip to prevent free rotation of the mandrel in both directions while permitting ro-- tation by the handle.

10. A device for waving hairfcomprising mandrel, means for clamping the hair thereto, ahandle at one end for rotating the mandrel, a cylindrical bearing member for rotatably supporting the other end of the mandrel, and stationary means supported by the bearing memher for spreading and tensioning the ,-hair for winding on the mandrel.

11. A device for waving hair comprising a mandrel, means for clamping the hair thereto, a handle for rotating the mandrel, means for engaging the mandrel with yielding frictional contact to prevent free rotation of the mandrel in both directions, and devices carried by the mandrel engaging means for spreading and tensioning the hair for 'winding'on the mandrel. I 1 12. A device for waving hair comprising" a mandrel upon which the hair iswound', and a substantially cylindrical. heating unit having a longitudinal slot to receive the mandrel, a slide mounted on the unit and movable over the slot to secure the mandrel therein, and. means for heating theunit. I I

13. A heater for use in the-waving of hair comprisinga' metallic core portion having a body of substantial mass provided with a laterally extending channeladapted to receive a wound curl and its supporting means, an electrical resistance unit in the body of said core for heating the same, thermal insulating means surrounding the core, means for retaining the heater on the wound curl, and electrical connecting means whereby the resistance unit may be-supplied with electricity for heating the same. 1

14. The method of waving living hair which comprises clamping a strand of hair close to the scalp, winding the strand from its outer end toward the scalp in flat, superimposed coils while stretching a limited length of the hair strand adjacent the wound portion without pull on the scalp, m'oistening the wound strand with a treating solution, enclosing the wound and moistenedportion in awrapper,'and subjecting said portionto heat to fix the curl therein.

15; A scalp protector for use in waving living hair comprising a body having a hair-receiving passage therein between opposed spaced parallel walls, a tongue pivotally mounted between said walls adjacent the closed end of the passage and adapted to be moved into and out of the passage, and yielding means on said tongue for clamping a hair 'strand"between said means and one wall of the passage, the other wall being directly engaged by said means. -16. A mandrel forvwinding hair having diametrically opposed fiat faces and means for clamping the hair to the mandrel comprising a pair of parallel, spaced, yielding members connected together at one of their ends and pivotally mounted at the other of their ends upon the mandrel to clamp thehair against the flat faces on the mandrel, said members having flat inner faces and rounded outer faces whereby the mandrel and said members provide a substantially circular exterior winding surface. 17. Adevice for waving hair comprising a mandrel having a cylindrical bearing face at one end and an operating handle at the other, a sleeve removably mounted upon-the bearing end of the mandrel and engaging the same with a substantial yielding frictional contact, and hair spreading and tensioning means secured to the sleeve at one end and free at the other, said means comprising a pair of yielding bars between which the hair is drawn, the bars being pivoted together to permit insertion of hair therebetween with means for securing the bars in operative position.

18. A device for waving hair'comprising a mandrel having a cylindrical bearing face-at one end and an operating handle at the other, a sleeve rotatably mounted upon the bearing end of the mandrel, and means forspreading and tensioning the hair positioned adjacent and parallel to the mandrel, said means being supported at one end by the sleeve and free at the other end.

FRANKE. DOERR. 

